Thai Restaurant Serving Authentic Thai Food in Beacon, New York
Pad Thai • Chicken • Curry • Fish • Vegetarian Dishes • Rice

October 21, 2005

Sukhothai a treat for fans of Thai

Beacon eatery a welcome addition

By Daniel Mochon
For the Poughkeepsie Journal

Finally, there is a beacon of hope in the mid-Hudson Valley for fans of Thai cuisine. Sukhothai opened last April in a former opera house, built back in 1818 when the city of Beacon was known as Matteawan. Sukhothai means ‘‘Dawn of Happiness’’ and is the name of an ancient city-state that is considered to be the cradle of the modern Thai nation.

After receiving a master’s degree in hotel management from Griffith University in Australia, chef/owner Chiraporn Rabenda arrived in the United States just days before the Sept. 11, 2001, tragedy. The second of 11 children,
Rabenda acquired and honed her culinary skills while cooking for her large family.

The neat, 50-seat place has a gallery feel to it. Framed rubbings taken from relief sculptures found at the ruins of the ancient Thai city adorned the brick walls along with sandstone depictions of dancing goddesses. A golden visage of the Buddha was brightly illuminated by chandeliers and votive candles on the tables. Meditative Thai dulcimer or khim music soothingly wafted through the dining room.

Satay ($5.95) is usually an accurate barometer of a Thai restaurant, and Sukhothai’s skewers were very good.

The flat strips of chicken breast were seasoned and tenderized in a curry-coconut milk marinade and served hot off the grill. On the side was the ubiquitous peanut dipping sauce, though this brick-colored rendition was more complex and flavorful than usual due to a dose of red curry paste.

Most Chinese restaurants offer shrimp toast; Kanom Bung Na Goong ($5.95) was a more refined version. Eight tiny squares of thin white bread were smeared with a pork and shrimp mixture, garnished with sesame seeds and deep fried. Clean oil and proper frying kept the toasts from becoming greasy sponges — even though very rich, they still seemed somewhat delicate.

A wine and beer license is in the works, but both the Thai Iced Tea and Iced Coffee ($2 each) were wonderful refreshers. The former is made from black tea leaves mixed with fragrant spices such as star anise, which give it a unique and beguiling flavor. The strongly brewed coffee, called oleang in Thailand, is sweetened and like the tea, poured over ice then topped off with a healthy dose of half and half.

Tom kha gai ($3.50) is not exactly mom’s chicken soup, but would probably do equally well in fighting flulike symptoms. The ivory-colored coconut milk broth was scented with plenty of galangal (a rhizome similar to ginger), lemongrass and fresh lime juice. Chunks of chicken breast, mushrooms and red pepper added texture; the only things I missed were fresh cilantro leaves and some fiery slices of bird’s eye chile.

Whoever first thought of using unripe papaya shavings as a salad ingredient was on to something good. Som Tam ($5.95) combined pale ribbons of the green fruit with carrot shards, scallions, grape tomatoes, green beans and roasted peanuts in a light dressing made from lime juice, fish sauce and palm sugar. It was a fresh, vibrant salad that showcased the crunchy produce well.

Efficient service
All our appetizers arrived in quick succession. The serving staff worked as a squad, simultaneously ferrying dishes out to each table then moving on to the next. Our amiable waitress, Namphung, bestowed on her guests a rare treasure — a genuinely warm smile. Though there was some delay in table clearing, for the most part our service was quietly efficient and very conscientious.

For one of our entrees, we sampled a popular Thai staple. Pad thai is comprised of thin, stir-fried rice noodles, bean sprouts, peanuts, tofu and scrambled egg. Seafood Pad Thai ($12.95) added greenlip mussels, scallops, jumbo shrimp and a scored piece of calamari; all except the shrimp were cooked a bit too long. We would probably order the pad thai again, but skip the seafood.

An earthy mixture of finely minced pork, red onions, garlic, ginger and peanuts, Naem Sod ($10.95) was served on a lawn of chopped green lettuce.
The pork had the granular texture of cooked ground beef and was in a slightly tart and spicy red sauce, which could have pushed the limits a bit farther, though we liked the dish.

A decadent red curry sauce was the star of the Gaeng phed ped yang ($16.95). This combined large pieces of succulent roasted duck in thick coconut cream with pineapple, red pepper, bamboo shoots and bell peppers.
Rabenda makes her own curry paste; the vibrancy and complex flavors were much deeper than one can get from the commercial versions. This dish also benefited from real Thai basil, which added sweet-sharp herbal notes and a slight anise flavor.

Unusual desserts are good

If you enjoy authentic Thai food as much as I do, you may want to have the kitchen bump the heat level up a bit; most of the food was prepared on the mild side.

Grilled Banana Split ($4.95) had chunks of the seared fruit atop coconut ice cream with a drizzling of chocolate sauce and roasted peanuts. It was a nice variation on a classic American treat. Guay Buad Chee ($3.95) was served warm and was like a sweet coconut soup, also with pieces of banana. Even though my companion and I were full, we still managed to put a dent in these tasty and unusual desserts.

Sukhothai is the most authentic Thai restaurant we’ve encountered in the area and is a (very) welcome addition to the growing array of Asian restaurants in the valley.

The Poughkeepsie Journal pays for the meals that are the subjects of restaurant reviews and reviewers do not identify themselves prior to the end of the meal. Daniel Mochon graduated with high honors from the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park in 2000. He is the director of wine and cuisine at the Hudson Valley’s largest wine and spirits store.

The Times Herald Record

Sukhothai

It's winter, and it's cold outside. For many, the outdoors is a fantastic playground. Skiing, snowshoeing, snowmobiling and other outdoor activities are fine. But there are also terrific indoor activities available in the area; one great alternative for our readers is the marvelous Dia: Beacon art gallery.

Beacon is a city in resurgence, a small town redeveloping and redesigning itself, and the Dia galleries are a major part of this revival. Lit mainly by natural light, the building itself is worth visiting simply for its majestic rooms and flowing spaces. Add some major contemporary art, including a large collection by Andy Warhol, and you have a great way to spend a winter day.

And after the gallery closes, you can head up the hill and stroll around the increasingly renewed and trendy downtown area of Beacon. There are several art galleries, antique dealers and interesting and hip restaurants to feed the tourists who have discovered this hot little town. Sure, not all of it is redone and alluring, but even the older buildings and stores have their own charm.

If you wander down Main Street long enough - past Mary's Pie Shop, an art gallery and a tattoo parlor - you will eventually come to the light and welcoming entrance to Sukhothai, a terrific new Thai restaurant.

Named after an ancient capital of the Thai kingdom, the restaurant is fitted into two storefronts that date back to 1808. Soothing Thai music fills the air of the brick-walled space where circular fans spin lazily from the high ceiling. Two bright chandeliers hang between the fans, and small Thai prints adorn the walls. Tables are set with attractive patterned cloths under glass tops, and walls are painted a mottled crimson red. This is a warm and offbeat room, a perfect addition for the increasingly hip Beacon.

The menu is large and diverse and offers a number of options. Pork, poultry and beef dishes are joined by seafood, noodle and vegetarian options. All are available in versions from mild to spicy. There is also a short list of evening specials available.

We begin with a special: Dumplings With Chicken and Shrimp ($5.95). Five small expertly folded packets arrive holding a delicious mixture of poultry, seafood and fresh vegetables. Alongside is a sweet and salty dipping sauce. The petite dumplings are bite-sized and explode in your mouth with a burst of flavor that washes over your palate.

We also sample Som Tam, Sweet and Spicy Green Papaya Salad ($5.95). Green papaya is unripe and not sweet. Here they slice it into long, lean slithers, mix it with green beans, cherry tomatoes, crunchy peanuts and tiny dried shrimp that add a briny bite to the mix. A sweet and tart dressing brings the combination together, and the outcome is one rattling good salad. Appetizer portions here are small; these two starters whet your appetite for more food rather than satiate before the entree.

And entrees are delightful. Shrimp Pad Thai ($9.95) is one of a couple of versions offered here of the Thai national dish. It's scrumptious. Noodles are mixed with good-sized shrimp, tofu, egg and bean sprouts. Alongside are crushed peanuts and red pepper flakes so you can adjust the heat level to your preference. The dish delivers a savory and soulful dining experience. There's more than enough for one person; two could share this dish, and we take some home for lunch tomorrow. And all for under $10!

We have to try a curry dish, Gaeng Phed Ped Yang, Roasted Duck With Red Curry. The boneless duck, cooked to a crisp, is sliced and spread over a bed of bamboo shoots, pineapple, carrot, tomato and rambutan, a lychee-like fruit. The dish presents a multiple array of flavors and textures that, while distinct, all merge into a wonderful meal.

Dessert is a Grilled Banana Split ($5.95), an old fashioned marvel with a new twist. Grilling softens and sweetens the banana so that, when combined with vanilla ice cream, chocolate syrup and whipped cream, it tastes sweeter and better.

Sukhothai has no liquor license yet, so you are welcome to bring your own beverages. I would recommend a riesling with this cuisine. Or you can always go with beer, especially with the more incendiary dishes available here.

The staff (tonight only one waitress and busboy) is cordial and welcoming, but a bit undereducated about the menu - a minor fault. And as the room fills up, we wait for some of our food and the check. But at these prices it's hard to quibble with petty miscues.

Our Asian exploration costs us all of $47 before tax and tip, an excellent value for a unique and tasty meal.

Beacon is a short, rewarding trip across the bridge but light years away from boring weekends at the mall. A visit to Dia is intriguing and educational, as is a visit to Sukhothai. This place serves delicious, authentic Thai food and does it at bargain prices. The brick-walled room is warm and chic, and the service team is friendly and laid back. Take a drive, check out Warhol and the other artists at Dia, and end your day with a delicious Thai dinner at Sukhothai. You'll have a great time, and you won't spend much either.

Restaurant critic Bill Guilfoyle has more than 25 years experience in the restaurant industry as a sommelier, manager and chef/owner. He is an associate professor at a local college. In case you missed it in the masthead on page 2, Bill Gilfoyle's e-mail has changed. You can now reach him at thedish@th-record.com.

Sukhothai - A Thai Experience

Where: 516 Main St., Beacon

Phone: 790-5375

Web: www.sukhothainy.com

Entree price range: $9.95-$16.95

Hours/days: Mon.-Thurs., 11:30 a.m.-9:30 p.m.; Fri. & Sat., 11:30 a.m.-10:30 p.m.; Sun., 11:30 a.m.-9:30 p.m.

Children's menu: no

Parking: nearby public parking

Reservations: appreciated

Bar: BYOB, liquor license pending

Handicapped accessible: yes

Low fat/vegetarian menu: yes

Other amenities: takeout, catering and private parties

Signature dishes: Som Tam, Pad Thai, Pla Lard Prik, Crispy Whole Fish With Chili Sauce

Credit cards: MasterCard, Visa, American Express, Discover

The Dish rating

Decor: ***

Service: **

Food: ****

Value: ****

Overall: ***½