Thai Restaurant Serving Authentic Thai Food in Beacon, New York
Pad Thai • Chicken • Curry • Fish • Vegetarian Dishes • Rice

 

Roll Restaurants
Sukhothai
by M.R. Smith

How well I remember my first time experiencing Thai cuisine. Having lived the entire ‘80s and ‘90s in a not-very-internationally-hip Southern city, my wife and I had simply not been exposed to it in any way. When visiting good friends in Manhattan sometime in the mid-80s, our incredulous hosts insisted on exposing us poor little country mice to the wonders of Siam, taking us to a place in the Village called . . . Sukhothai. Fancy that.

The first thing we had was one of those inverted Bundt-pan soup pots full of steaming milk-white soup. Sniffing, poking, then eventually spooning it up, I was instantly transported to a whole different flavor world that I’ve never quite booked a return trip home from. Tom Kha Gai, made from chicken, coconut milk, lemon grass, galangal root, kaffir lime leaves, fish sauce and red chiles (with occasional straw mushrooms and veggies) is one of the world’s most perfectly realized soups—and in years of eating it—it has become my main yardstick by which I personally evaluate any Thai-style restaurant. If it’s done right, then I feel confident I will be a happy camper at meal’s end. If not, well . . . er, check please.

So, having made our counter-intuitive Northern migration, naturally we needed something close by in the Hudson Valley that met our occasional need for Thai. After some hit-and-miss experiences around the area, we finally got to check out Sukhothai in Beacon. The Tom Kha Gai was immediately ordered, four spoonfuls tucked in and savored, and four verdicts pronounced: mmmmm. Got the balance between sweet, salty, sour and spicy right. A good omen.

That night, and another night a month later, we sampled our general family favorites: the Pad Thai (for those Thai neophytes still out there, the ubiquitous rice noodle/sprouts/tofu/egg/scallion/peanut dish), Green and Panang Curries, Larb (a cold ground-meat salad that tastes WAY better than the name implies) and Ginger Chicken. We generally agreed that we had found a fine place to get our needed fix. Life was good, a balance restored.

But now, I have the assignment of sampling the Sukhothai fare with a more critical palate. And, because I’m, quite frankly, non-confrontational and egalitarian (read:wimpy), I brought along some erudite and cultured friends to share opinions. My treat. (Well, Roll’s treat, but I’m trying to appear magnanimous here.)

For appetizers, we went with the vegetarian Tom Kha Gai, which, once again, had the proper elements, even without the chicken. The seafood hot-and-sour Tom Yum Goong had the requisite sour/salty spice, while the Thai Mussels with basil (on the specials list) appeared plump and a little dry, which made us thankful for the garlic/fish dipping sauce. The spring rolls were crispy fried and, as usual, irresistible dipped in the light sweet fish sauce.

Entrees arrived right on time, with Mr. Miagi going with a red duck curry, the duck pronounced perfectly cooked (and yes . . . Mr. Miagi is a guy who knows when his duck is cooked), the curry flavorful, but slightly lacking in slow-burning spice... 

...Ms. Miagi got her usual favorite vegetarian Pad Thai, which hit all the marks, and had an unusual (and unexpected) addition of pineapple, while J went for the Ginger Chicken, which had a delicious sinus-clearing quality to it, with the lemongrass and fish sauce providing a solid foundation to the mega-ginger twang. Though I usually am a curry man, I went for the Prik Khing Pork, with thin pork slices in a gingery sauce with fresh green beans, red peppers, lime leaves and peanuts. Though flavorful and well-presented, the pork could have been a little moister, the beans a bit less al dente, but I still enjoyed the spice play. (I think I will get the sweet, hot, and basil-ly Green Curry next time though, it was so good last time.)

The usual Thai desserts are here, with varieties of fried bananas and some nice ice creams (the ginger is divine), but we went with a chocolate pyramid which was light and mousse-like; and the sticky rice and mango, with fresh mango sliced alongside a coconut confected rice scoop and a mint sprig. A simple and tasty combination that seems almost guilt-free.

The young wait-staff we had on an off night (Wed.) acquitted themselves well, prices were quite reasonable, the bistro-style décor makes the most of the old brick (with a tasteful use of plants and screens) and, though we could sit around and be picky about little things here and there (why no cilantro?), we agreed that a good time and meal were had by all, and an afternoon of art gallery hopping in Beacon would find a good ending spot right here. Be sure to get reservations on the weekend though. We’re not the only ones looking for a real taste of Thai.

Sukhothai is located at 516 Main St., Beacon. Open Su/Tu/We/Th 11:30 AM- 9:30 PM, Fr/Sa 11:30 AM- 10:30 PM, closed Mo. www.sukhothainy.com, 845.790.5375, 845.440.7731. Major credit cards accepted.

 

Taste of Thailand

Sukhothai

  In April, 2005, Chira and Ray Rabenda opened Sukhothai. The restaurant was packed on the day they opened, and they are filling tables almost three years later. On my visits to the restaurant, the tables were brimming with young couples, families, and groups of friends. Sukhothai, one of the few Thai restaurants in the region, fulfills Rabenda’s goal to bring Thai culture and “tasty, well presented” food to the area.

Growing up in northeast Thailand, Rabenda learned to cook from her mother, whom she recognizes as her greatest culinary influence: “She taught me well. She always encouraged me. My parents worked hard and I learned from them.” Rabenda often had to cook for her large family (she is the second of 11 children), on a remarkably small budget. As Thai cooking tends to be based more on oral tradition than written history, she learned cooking secrets from her mother: techniques passed down from generation to generation that cannot be found in any cookbook.

While Rabenda’s mother tended to her large brood, her father supported the family financially, owning a cinema and dubbing foreign films into Thai. Parlaying language skills learned from her father, Chef Rabenda entered and won a contest in Bangkok doing voiceover narration. Later, she attended Griffith University in Australia where she studied hotel management, earning a master’s degree.

Three days before September 11, 2001, Rabenda moved to New York City. Shortly thereafter, she met Ray, a Poughkeepsie native, and moved to the Hudson Valley. Having worked in the hotel industry for 12 years, the recent newlywed questioned her career goals. While never having worked as a chef, she had cooked for her large family and her friends, who frequently sampled her culinary creations and encouraged her culinary ambitions. She relished the challenge and the Rabendas set out to actualize their vision for a Thai restaurant. They settled on Beacon, a city poised for growth as it emerged from the Hudson Valley’s post-industrial doldrums.

Educating the public about her culture and cuisine is a fundamental goal for Rabenda, which goes hand in hand with pleasing her patrons. In fact, when the Rabendas purchased their restaurant property, they struggled to agree on a name. Built in 1818 and formerly an opera house, a grocery store, and most recently a bar, they took note of the exposed brick walls and the wheels of inspiration began turning. He believed “Bangkok Station” an appropriate moniker due to the nearby train tracks. She was inclined toward “Sukhothai,” the capital of the ancient Thai kingdom, also meaning “Dawn of Happiness.” To the budding restaurateur, the brick recalled the resplendent architecture of the historic city-state. As passersby approached their storefront during renovation, they sought the opinion of the general public. Eighty percent liked Chira’s choice. Ultimately yielding to the input of the residents, the couple agreed on the name.

The Rabendas designed their 49-seat dining room to have a warm, open feel. The high ceiling is peppered with mini-chandeliers and tropical-inspired ceiling fans and chili red walls contrast the nude brick. Saloon-style kitchen doors constantly swing open, servers coming and going, revealing a glimpse of the cooks in action.
Rabenda’s food represents what you would find in central Thailand, specifically in Bangkok. Traditional food of the region consists of unadorned dishes, usually rice served with vegetables or fish. However, in the dynamic city of Bangkok, an eater can experience fare from all regions of Thailand. The city is a culinary melting pot of Thai regional styles.

Sukhothai’s menu mirrors Bangkok cuisine, offering a potpourri of traditional Thai meals and street food, as well as an array of specialty dishes. Furthermore, unlike French cooking, for example, which tends to be precise and technical (and serves as the basis for formal culinary training in Europe and the US), Thai cooks formulate their food based on personal taste, and an inclination toward a variety of flavor combinations. Five key flavors dominate Thai cooking: salty, sweet, sour, bitter, and hot. Different uses of these basic flavors produce a rainbow of tastes and aromas.  All dishes are spiced to taste so that each individual can specify a preferred level of heat. Rabenda’s gastronomical passion is curry, so we asked for hot, hot heat with ours. The curry sampler is served in four petite bowls, providing the opportunity to compare and contrast flavors and allow the diner to pick proteins to accompany the curries. All four curries are made with coconut milk, giving them a creamy, rich, slightly sweet aroma and flavor. The panang is traditionally made with thin strips of beef. Rabenda’s is accented with green beans and red bell pepper. Fish sauce gives it a sour tang. This curry is simultaneously salty, sweet, and sour, a typical Thai flavor profile.  We asked for chicken with the mustard-colored massam curry. Potatoes create a hearty, thick, stew in this curry. Made with tamarind, cinnamon, fish sauce, and coconut milk, it is less tangy than the panang and rounder on the tongue. The green curry with plump, succulent shrimp is mildly spicy, smooth, and silken. Thai basil gives it a floral aroma and an anise flavor. Kaffir lime adds a lemony scent. Instead of the chili pepper used to make red curry paste, fresh green peppers are utilized, giving it a lime-green color. Lastly, we requested pork with the red curry. Made with shrimp paste, it is zesty, fiery, and sweet. To contrast the thick slabs of tender pork, crunchy red peppers, bamboo shoots, and onions swimming in the sauce contribute to a balanced texture.

Rabenda seeks customer input to create authentic, yet personalized fare. Although her menu reflects the dishes she grew up cooking to feed her family, she is willing to change any recipe to suit a patron’s needs. Not afraid of dietary restrictions like gluten-free, sugar-free, and vegetarian, she informed me that she uses Splenda for diabetic customers. In addition to her flexibility, Chira churns out variations of the same dish. After introducing Pad Thai, one of Thailand’s national foods, to her audience, she expanded her menu to include Woon Sen Pad Thai (made with glass noodles) and Senyai Pad Thai (made with wide noodles).

One of northeast Thailand’s most popular dishes is Som Tam, eaten both on its own and often as an accompaniment to grilled meat. Served at room temperature, the star of the salad is very thinly grated ribbons of green, somewhat chewy papaya. Literally meaning “pounded sour,” chili, garlic, lime, and fish sauce are pounded with a mortar and pestle to create a spicy and sour taste sensation. Dried shrimp give it brine. Som Tom integrates the four main tastes of Thai cooking: piquant chili, salty fish sauce, sugar, and tangy lime. Crunchy green beans, carrots, and tomatoes showcase fresh ingredients often used in Thai cooking. In a country that’s hot climate rivals the heat of their food, eating Som Tam is a healthy, refreshing way to cool down. Another favorite is Tom Yum Goong, a steaming hot soup that also incorporates many distinct Thai flavors. Gingery galangal and flowery lime leaves, as well as shrimp and vegetables, add depth to a sinus-clearing, hot and sour lemongrass broth.  Some of Sukhothai’s standout entrees include the specialty Ped Yang, a sinfully crispy-skinned duck served with a rich, thick “modified” hoisin (the chef adds sugar and vinegar) atop crunchy, deep fried collard greens. Twice cooked beef, accompanied by sticky rice and Som Tom, is marinated in a tangy teriyaki yielding an intensely rich flavor. Chicken satay and fish cakes are two appetizers commonly found in Bangkok’s endless street vendors.

The menu is vast and diverse, including a wide selection of noodle, rice, vegetable, fish, and meat dishes. Desserts include a rather gluttonous version of fried ice cream, a big enough portion to satiate several people. There are also several versions of fried bananas and ice cream flavors ranging from Thai tea to coconut to green tea. During the summer, they serve fresh mango on top of glutinous sticky rice and topped with silken coconut cream.

When Rabenda is not running her kitchen, she is at the head of the class. A year ago, after a customer told her, “We know your cooking and we hope one day we will be able to cook like you,” she decided to start teaching Sukhothai’s dishes. Her weekly Monday night class is comprised primarily of her regulars whom she instructs in small groups in Sukhothai’s kitchen.

Between running the restaurant and teaching, Rabenda is keeping busy. Yet she says she never hesitates to take a moment to step aside from her work to reflect on her philosophy: “Bottom line—you have to have a passion. You have to love what you do, particularly the food. I love everything I put on the table.”

Sukhothai is open for lunch and dinner. During lunch, appetizers and salads range from $2.59 to $5.99 and entrees are all $8.95. Dinner appetizers range from $4.99 to $9.99, soups and salads $3.99 to $16.95, entrées $11.95 to $24.95, and desserts from $3.50 to $5.95. Wines by the glass run $7 to $8 and are offered by the bottle from $24 to $38. Small-production domestic beers and imported Thai beers are also served.

Sukhothai, 516 Main Street, Beacon. (845) 790-5375; www.sukhothainy.net. Sunday, Tuesday-Thursday: 11:30am-9:30pm; Friday & Saturday: 11:30am-10:30pm.

Our Menu Features:

Pad Thai • Curry Dishes • Som Tam • Jasmine Rice

January 27, 2006

The Times Herald Record

Sukhothai

It's winter, and it's cold outside. For many, the outdoors is a fantastic playground. Skiing, snowshoeing, snowmobiling and other outdoor activities are fine. But there are also terrific indoor activities available in the area; one great alternative for our readers is the marvelous Dia: Beacon art gallery.

Beacon is a city in resurgence, a small town redeveloping and redesigning itself, and the Dia galleries are a major part of this revival. Lit mainly by natural light, the building itself is worth visiting simply for its majestic rooms and flowing spaces. Add some major contemporary art, including a large collection by Andy Warhol, and you have a great way to spend a winter day.

And after the gallery closes, you can head up the hill and stroll around the increasingly renewed and trendy downtown area of Beacon. There are several art galleries, antique dealers and interesting and hip restaurants to feed the tourists who have discovered this hot little town. Sure, not all of it is redone and alluring, but even the older buildings and stores have their own charm.

If you wander down Main Street long enough - past Mary's Pie Shop, an art gallery and a tattoo parlor - you will eventually come to the light and welcoming entrance to Sukhothai, a terrific new Thai restaurant.

Named after an ancient capital of the Thai kingdom, the restaurant is fitted into two storefronts that date back to 1808. Soothing Thai music fills the air of the brick-walled space where circular fans spin lazily from the high ceiling. Two bright chandeliers hang between the fans, and small Thai prints adorn the walls. Tables are set with attractive patterned cloths under glass tops, and walls are painted a mottled crimson red. This is a warm and offbeat room, a perfect addition for the increasingly hip Beacon.

The menu is large and diverse and offers a number of options. Pork, poultry and beef dishes are joined by seafood, noodle and vegetarian options. All are available in versions from mild to spicy. There is also a short list of evening specials available.

We begin with a special: Dumplings With Chicken and Shrimp ($5.95). Five small expertly folded packets arrive holding a delicious mixture of poultry, seafood and fresh vegetables. Alongside is a sweet and salty dipping sauce. The petite dumplings are bite-sized and explode in your mouth with a burst of flavor that washes over your palate.

We also sample Som Tam, Sweet and Spicy Green Papaya Salad ($5.95). Green papaya is unripe and not sweet. Here they slice it into long, lean slithers, mix it with green beans, cherry tomatoes, crunchy peanuts and tiny dried shrimp that add a briny bite to the mix. A sweet and tart dressing brings the combination together, and the outcome is one rattling good salad. Appetizer portions here are small; these two starters whet your appetite for more food rather than satiate before the entree.

And entrees are delightful. Shrimp Pad Thai ($9.95) is one of a couple of versions offered here of the Thai national dish. It's scrumptious. Noodles are mixed with good-sized shrimp, tofu, egg and bean sprouts. Alongside are crushed peanuts and red pepper flakes so you can adjust the heat level to your preference. The dish delivers a savory and soulful dining experience. There's more than enough for one person; two could share this dish, and we take some home for lunch tomorrow. And all for under $10!

We have to try a curry dish, Gaeng Phed Ped Yang, Roasted Duck With Red Curry. The boneless duck, cooked to a crisp, is sliced and spread over a bed of bamboo shoots, pineapple, carrot, tomato and rambutan, a lychee-like fruit. The dish presents a multiple array of flavors and textures that, while distinct, all merge into a wonderful meal.

Dessert is a Grilled Banana Split ($5.95), an old fashioned marvel with a new twist. Grilling softens and sweetens the banana so that, when combined with vanilla ice cream, chocolate syrup and whipped cream, it tastes sweeter and better.

Sukhothai has no liquor license yet, so you are welcome to bring your own beverages. I would recommend a riesling with this cuisine. Or you can always go with beer, especially with the more incendiary dishes available here.

The staff (tonight only one waitress and busboy) is cordial and welcoming, but a bit undereducated about the menu - a minor fault. And as the room fills up, we wait for some of our food and the check. But at these prices it's hard to quibble with petty miscues.

Our Asian exploration costs us all of $47 before tax and tip, an excellent value for a unique and tasty meal.

Beacon is a short, rewarding trip across the bridge but light years away from boring weekends at the mall. A visit to Dia is intriguing and educational, as is a visit to Sukhothai. This place serves delicious, authentic Thai food and does it at bargain prices. The brick-walled room is warm and chic, and the service team is friendly and laid back. Take a drive, check out Warhol and the other artists at Dia, and end your day with a delicious Thai dinner at Sukhothai. You'll have a great time, and you won't spend much either.

Restaurant critic Bill Guilfoyle has more than 25 years experience in the restaurant industry as a sommelier, manager and chef/owner. He is an associate professor at a local college. In case you missed it in the masthead on page 2, Bill Gilfoyle's e-mail has changed. You can now reach him at thedish@th-record.com.

Sukhothai - A Thai Experience

Where: 516 Main St., Beacon

Phone: 790-5375

Web: www.sukhothainy.com

Entree price range: $9.95-$16.95

Hours/days: Mon.-Thurs., 11:30 a.m.-9:30 p.m.; Fri. & Sat., 11:30 a.m.-10:30 p.m.; Sun., 11:30 a.m.-9:30 p.m.

Children's menu: no

Parking: nearby public parking

Reservations: appreciated

Bar: BYOB, liquor license pending

Handicapped accessible: yes

Low fat/vegetarian menu: yes

Other amenities: takeout, catering and private parties

Signature dishes: Som Tam, Pad Thai, Pla Lard Prik, Crispy Whole Fish With Chili Sauce

Credit cards: MasterCard, Visa, American Express, Discover

The Dish rating

Decor: ***

Service: **

Food: ****

Value: ****

Overall: ***½

October 21, 2005

Sukhothai a treat for fans of Thai

Beacon eatery a welcome addition

Finally, there is a beacon of hope in the mid-Hudson Valley for fans of Thai cuisine. Sukhothai opened last April in a former opera house, built back in 1818 when the city of Beacon was known as Matteawan. Sukhothai means ‘‘Dawn of Happiness’’ and is the name of an ancient city-state that is considered to be the cradle of the modern Thai nation.

After receiving a master’s degree in hotel management from Griffith University in Australia, chef/owner Chiraporn Rabenda arrived in the United States just days before the Sept. 11, 2001, tragedy. The second of 11 children,
Rabenda acquired and honed her culinary skills while cooking for her large family.

The neat, 50-seat place has a gallery feel to it. Framed rubbings taken from relief sculptures found at the ruins of the ancient Thai city adorned the brick walls along with sandstone depictions of dancing goddesses. A golden visage of the Buddha was brightly illuminated by chandeliers and votive candles on the tables. Meditative Thai dulcimer or khim music soothingly wafted through the dining room.

Satay ($5.95) is usually an accurate barometer of a Thai restaurant, and Sukhothai’s skewers were very good.

The flat strips of chicken breast were seasoned and tenderized in a curry-coconut milk marinade and served hot off the grill. On the side was the ubiquitous peanut dipping sauce, though this brick-colored rendition was more complex and flavorful than usual due to a dose of red curry paste.

Most Chinese restaurants offer shrimp toast; Kanom Bung Na Goong ($5.95) was a more refined version. Eight tiny squares of thin white bread were smeared with a pork and shrimp mixture, garnished with sesame seeds and deep fried. Clean oil and proper frying kept the toasts from becoming greasy sponges — even though very rich, they still seemed somewhat delicate.

A wine and beer license is in the works, but both the Thai Iced Tea and Iced Coffee ($2 each) were wonderful refreshers. The former is made from black tea leaves mixed with fragrant spices such as star anise, which give it a unique and beguiling flavor. The strongly brewed coffee, called oleang in Thailand, is sweetened and like the tea, poured over ice then topped off with a healthy dose of half and half.

Tom kha gai ($3.50) is not exactly mom’s chicken soup, but would probably do equally well in fighting flulike symptoms. The ivory-colored coconut milk broth was scented with plenty of galangal (a rhizome similar to ginger), lemongrass and fresh lime juice. Chunks of chicken breast, mushrooms and red pepper added texture; the only things I missed were fresh cilantro leaves and some fiery slices of bird’s eye chile.

Whoever first thought of using unripe papaya shavings as a salad ingredient was on to something good. Som Tam ($5.95) combined pale ribbons of the green fruit with carrot shards, scallions, grape tomatoes, green beans and roasted peanuts in a light dressing made from lime juice, fish sauce and palm sugar. It was a fresh, vibrant salad that showcased the crunchy produce well.

Efficient service
All our appetizers arrived in quick succession. The serving staff worked as a squad, simultaneously ferrying dishes out to each table then moving on to the next. Our amiable waitress, Namphung, bestowed on her guests a rare treasure — a genuinely warm smile. Though there was some delay in table clearing, for the most part our service was quietly efficient and very conscientious.

For one of our entrees, we sampled a popular Thai staple. Pad thai is comprised of thin, stir-fried rice noodles, bean sprouts, peanuts, tofu and scrambled egg. Seafood Pad Thai ($12.95) added greenlip mussels, scallops, jumbo shrimp and a scored piece of calamari; all except the shrimp were cooked a bit too long. We would probably order the pad thai again, but skip the seafood.

An earthy mixture of finely minced pork, red onions, garlic, ginger and peanuts, Naem Sod ($10.95) was served on a lawn of chopped green lettuce.
The pork had the granular texture of cooked ground beef and was in a slightly tart and spicy red sauce, which could have pushed the limits a bit farther, though we liked the dish.

A decadent red curry sauce was the star of the Gaeng phed ped yang ($16.95). This combined large pieces of succulent roasted duck in thick coconut cream with pineapple, red pepper, bamboo shoots and bell peppers.
Rabenda makes her own curry paste; the vibrancy and complex flavors were much deeper than one can get from the commercial versions. This dish also benefited from real Thai basil, which added sweet-sharp herbal notes and a slight anise flavor.

Unusual desserts are good

If you enjoy authentic Thai food as much as I do, you may want to have the kitchen bump the heat level up a bit; most of the food was prepared on the mild side.

Grilled Banana Split ($4.95) had chunks of the seared fruit atop coconut ice cream with a drizzling of chocolate sauce and roasted peanuts. It was a nice variation on a classic American treat. Guay Buad Chee ($3.95) was served warm and was like a sweet coconut soup, also with pieces of banana. Even though my companion and I were full, we still managed to put a dent in these tasty and unusual desserts.

Sukhothai is the most authentic Thai restaurant we’ve encountered in the area and is a (very) welcome addition to the growing array of Asian restaurants in the valley.

The Poughkeepsie Journal pays for the meals that are the subjects of restaurant reviews and reviewers do not identify themselves prior to the end of the meal. Daniel Mochon graduated with high honors from the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park in 2000. He is the director of wine and cuisine at the Hudson Valley’s largest wine and spirits store.